Dress pattern



Nov. 15, 1927. 1,649,479

. T. MccAMPBx-:LL

DRESS PATTERN Filed Dec. 14. 1922 Patented Nov. 15, 1927.

UNITED STATES y 'THERON MGGAMPBELL, 0E HoL-ivinALE, NEW JERSEY.

` DREss PATTERN.

Application filed December 14, 1.922. Serial No. 506,802.'

The present invention relates to certain nenT and useful improvements applicable to tailors guides, garment makers templets and patterns, but more particularly useful and valuable in connection With the cheap.

patterns generally made oi' paper and sold. in great numbers to dressmakers and to Women generally for use in the shaping and assembling ot' garments ol' all kinds.

It has been generally customary hitherto to putv out a separate paper pattern 'tor all the parts ol' each size ot each different design 'and kind of garment; and iorthe sake ot cheapness and to facilitate cutting many patterns at once, very thin and flimsy cheap paper has generally been used'tor this purpose.Y As the number ot designs of each kind ot garment is always very great, and, as every design must be supplied for many diiierent sizes, this system makes it necessary or each dealer to meet competition by keeping in stock an immense number of patterne, even it' he keeps only a few otl each design, size and kind. Since styles are constantly changing and the number of dealers handling patterns is very great, it follows that eachv ,manufacturer Y obliged to keep up a. tremendous volume of output, a large part ot which is never used. The amount et capital thus tied up is, there- Vfore, very large. Y y

lt this system couldbe modified in a mannerv to permit each pattern for a giveir design to be available for any size of garment` made in that design, it is clear that a ,saving ot' veryv great value would be achieved. The volume ot' unused patterns would be greatly reduced, the capital tied up in stock manufactured and stock kept on handrby dealers 'ould be greatly lessened, and the convenience oi the customers Would be enhanced. Furthermore, this saving Would make it possible touse thicker and better' paperv andA thus to produce more durable patterns of a nature more easily handled by ther user.`

Another advantage resulting' trom such a system would be that the peculiarities ofi each individuals figure could be accommodated ina .manner that'v is at vpresent not practically possible. ivaists are identified as measurement, and itis assumed that, 'a given bust measure corresponds in each individual to certain other bodily measurements.y Such isfar from the case, however. For instance a round shouldered flat chested persontvould ofy patterns Y is y For instance, Womens.

to sizeby` the bust require a pattern for the back that corresponded to alarge bust measurement, While, of course, the yfront of the pattern for that bust measure would be a-misfit..y l

It, however, the' pattern for each design is prepared in multiple form on a single sheet, so arranged that the user `has her choice of sizes before her; or may, ii'fshe pleases, cut her pattern with more or` less tulness here 0r there, she can geta better individual tit with no extra care or expense. For instance, a round shouldered and flat chested Woman would simply cut the back of her Waist from say a number forty tWo and the front from say .a number thirty eight. Other peculiarities of ligure could be similarly accommodated. Among these i may be mentioned the Wide variations in hip lmeasurement and sizes of arms found among Weinen of the saine bust measure. Children are even more variable in their proportions than adults and the present system of grading by the supposed average sizes' at various ages leavesmu'ch to be desired.

vFor instance, a child` might require an eight years size Afor the breast'measure andV might bev so tall as to require a ten years y size for the skirt, VAn approximation to the requirements of such a case might be had by purchasing two complete patterns, one :tor the eight years sizel and-one for the ten years size, but this Wouldentail a double expense and, as the skirt of one pattern Was not intended to go With the Waist of 4the other, good results would not be had.`

One aspect ot the present invention contemplates printing or otherwise marking the outlineslt'or a number of sizes on a single pattern Sheet. In such a `pattern there Would bea Acommon meeting pointffor the diiicerent sizes 'oit' the different parts `would be designed to go together at therespective comn'ion points. Different sizes in be used, with such slight modifications as all sizes and Y would; be Within the limits ofA seam' alloivances; y l

In shaping the' material to lit the human torni it is often necessary; to cut out por- `tions of surplus material. Darts, for in;

stance, are used in this .Way inf a sleeve, to accommodate the curvel of the arm. The position,.ividth and depth of such a dart would vary with each size in a given garment part, and, Where anumber of sizes are voutlined on oneipattern sheet,

'it Would create an impractical degree of confusion to attempt to mark the darts of all the sizes on a single sheet.

In order to secure the great advantages resulting from having a number of sizes shown on a single pattern sheet, and still avoid the confusion that would result from marking all the various corresponding sizes and locations of the darts for these different sizes, the present invention contemplates providing the main outlining sheet for each garment part with an auxiliary strip for each size of garment part outlined thereon, said strips bearing marks indicating exactly where the dart or darts for the corresponding size should come when the strip is laid across the material. These strips may be supplied separated from the outline sheets to which theyv belong, or they can be formed integrally therewith, and be cut off by the user. Such a dart strip 'can be made for onev or both sides of a garment part, and be prepared either for full length (or width) or half length (or width) as may be desired.

Another kind of finishing much in vogue for womens and childrens garments is the application of trimming, braiding, or the cutting out of scallops or other shapes. The sizes and positions of scallops vand the like vary with ditl'erent sizes, and the positioning of trimmings etc. also varies according to size. 0bviously, therefore, it would lead to hopeless confusion to attempt to indicate details of this kind for various sizes on a single sheet. The special cutting for preferential neck lines (high, low, round, oval, or V) may be shown in the same manner upon .separate or separable auxiliary strips, and these strips may be used after the main outline is cut in the same manner as dart 0r scallop strips. indeed, the invention applies to the use of auxiliary strips adapted to guide the dressmaker in any kind of selective finishing after the main outlining has been accomplished, whether for accommodating variations in size or to make it possible to select any one of a number of designs for the finish of the particular garment part in hand.

The present invention contemplates the provision of one or more auxiliary strips for each size which bear upon them the necessary guide marks for the location of any kind of finishing for its own size; so that, Vwhen laid across or :along the edge of the outline pattern for that size, it will indicate Just where cuts are to be made for gussets,

darts etc. or where trimmings are to be ap-l pliedor scallops or other iinishings are made.. or applied. rlhe invention is not limited to the use of auxiliary stripsfor any particular kind of nishing, but includes all. AV given pattern may be provided either with auniliary. strips for only one kind of finishing for each size, or with strips for different kinds of finishing, and in any case the strips may either be formed integrally with an outlining' sheet or be sold separated therefrom. Of course, if desired, more than one kind of finishing may be shown on a single. strip.

The invention is not limited to the use of auxiliary .strips in connection with outlining sheets showing a plurality of sizes. In most cas-es, patterns for only one size are intended to be used for marking orstitching through perforations, the locations Aof certain finishings. This entails'trouble in making and in erasing'. the marks, and in using certa-in delicate fabrics marks of this kind are actually damaging to the material. By using the auxiliary separate or separable strips-'to lay across the fabric when cut to the desired outline, these objections are avoided.

Another advantage of using auxiliary folding strips with a one-sized tern is that it makes it possible, by supplying a number of strips, to select any one of a number of kinds, sizes or relative locations of nishing.

The invention is illustrated in the accompanying' drawings in connection with a main outlining pattern sheet for one part of a garment marked for three sizes. sizes are indicated for greaterv clearn-ess in the drawing, although it is to be understood that the invention is t-o be applied to patterns for only one size or for as many sizes as are found convenient. Also'the outlines etc. may be either perforated or printed, although the latter, as illustrated, is preferred, since, permits both .sides of a pattern sheet to be separately used, thus permitting the display of a. greater number of sizes thanV would otherwise be possible.

lt is to be understood that these figures are merely explanatory of the principles of the invention, and that the actual proportions and locations of guide lines shown are not int-ended to be correct in any given pattern. ln other words, no attempt is here made to show a properly graded pattern for actual use, as this is a mattei' wit-hin Vthe province of those skilled in the art.

Also it is to be understood that, although, for greater clearness and simplicity, only one auxiliary strip is shown inthe drawing for each size, the invention applies to patterns in which, for instance, two strips are given for each size, one for a kfinishing or shaping at one part (say the neck) and the other at another part t as along the bottom). ln other words, the number of .strips supplied foreach size is not an essential of the invention.

The patterns made in accordance with this invention maybe either full size; or, as is frequently the ease in present practice, they may correspond to one half of the symmetrigarment pat- Gnly three la Al among other advantage-s, it,

liu

outlining sheet for a womans waist in three sizes, Figs. 2, 2a and 2b show auxiliary dart strips for thethree sizes respectively, and Fig. 3 shows a half width outlining sheet for a skirt with attached auxiliary strips for scallops tor three sizes.

In Fig. 1 the outlining sheet' is` shown bounded on one side by the straight center told line, and on two other sides by the line 11 corresponding tothe largest sized waist contemplated. The line 12 indicates the next smallest size and the line 13 the smallest ot the three sizes intended.

In order to shape the garment to the figf ure, taking it in at the waist, a dart (generally triangular) is cut out of the cloth at the proper point along the lower edge 14. The size and location ot the dart will vary with the garment size; and, generally, a larger dart will be taken from a smaller waist and vice versa. Accordingly strips such as shown in Figs. 2, 2 and 2l will be supplied, bearing the marks 15, 16 or 17 respectively, which indicate the location and size ot the darts tobe removed, when the left hand edge of the strip is appliedV to the center fold of the cut out garment. Fig. 2 shows the strip for the smallest sized waist, Fig. 2a for the next size and Fig. 2b for the largest.

By placing such a strip flat against the single cloth, after outlining by means of the sheet shown in Fig. 1, and properly locating thestrip as per directions supplied in any manner, the dart can be accurately and easily made by cutting through the strip and cloth together.

In Fig. 3 is shown a halt width skirt outlining sheet, whose straight center fold line isy shown at 1S. The lines 19, 2O and 21 limit the width of the half pattern for three sizes.

The auxiliary strips are here shown, formed integral with the pattern and bear- Y ing lines to guide in the cutting out of appropriate scallops for the different sizes. Strip 22 is for use with the largest size, strip 28 With the next smaller size and strip 24 with the smallest size. It is, of course, immaterial whether these strips be straight,

curved or, indeed, how they are shaped.V

Proper directions of any well known character being supplied, the strip proper fora given size which lhas been cut out can be applied against the cloth and, by' cutting paper and cloth together along the guiding line or lines, the scallop (or other shaping or inishing) can be accomplished. In the claims the term linishing7 includes shaping by cutting or otherwise.

In a copending application for patent, Serial No. 606,803, filed December 14, 1922, the use of auxiliary strips forA guiding in pleating, tucking, smo'cking, etc. is shown and claimed and this specific use of thev idea is therefore not herein set `forth and claimed. l Y

That is claimed is- 1. In a pattern for a garment part a sheet bearing the outline of a garment part lof f specic shape and size, in combination with an auxiliary strip bearing guiding outlining marks adapted, when laid on said outlined garment part, to indicate the required position and size of the linishing cuts for that specific size and shape of the garment part.v 1 V 2. Means for insuring' the proper finishing cutting of a shaped garment part of a specie shape and size, comprising a strip of material bearing vguiding marks and adapted, when properly located on said garment part to indicate clearly to a dressmaker the t l location of the inishing cuts required by said specific shape and size of garment part.

3.As an article of manufacture a sheet having printed upon itthe outlinesof garment parts of specilic vsizes and also having printed upon it the outlines of guiding strips each of which strips bears guiding marks adapted to clearly indicate to a dressmaker the location of the nishing cuts required in the .garmentparts shaped like the respective i outlines of garment parts on said sheet.

In testimony whereof I have. hereto set my hand.

Y THERoN MCCAMPBELL. 

